Thursday, January 18, 2018

How to make a DIY router table

I made this mini router table for my trim router. It is made out of 9mm birch plywood. It has a movable fence and a place for my dust collection system.

First of all I cut a few strips of plywood on my table saw. For the cross cuts I used my cross cut sled.

I then used my router’s base to mark the positions of the holes I needed. Using a forstner bit I drilled the center hole. I then drilled the screw holes. To prevent the screw heads from not being flush, I used a forstner bit again to create some kind of counter sink.

I then cut the pieces for the body of the table. These are joined with rabbets. I made the rabbets on the table saw. I moved the fence back after every cut, until the pieces fitted snuggly in the rabbets. I then glued and nailed the pieces together, using my air powered nail gun.

Using my circular saw and a guide rail, I cut the back panel. I glued and nailed it in place also.

I sanded the back flush with the top using my random orbit sander. I glued and nailed the two side top pieces. The inner top piece is movable so I can mount the router in place. I achieved that by keeping it in place using two 8mm dowels. With the top in it’s place I drilled the hole for the router bit using a forstner bit again.

I cut the pieces for the fence of the table. I also used solid wood blocks for the fence’s support and guide rails. I rounded over the stock for the blocks with my spokeshave. I cut four blocks on my table saw using a stop block on my cross cut sled. I also made an insert for my dust collection system. I glued and nailed all the pieces of the fence together. I also used a block plane to plane the guide rails to size after the glue dried.

At this point my homemade router table was ready. I mounted on the router and secured the fence and the table itself using clamps.

I made a couple of test cuts and it worked really nicely! I hope you enjoyed the video and found it useful! 

Thursday, January 11, 2018

Making a 100K thank you sign out of spruce

Recently I reached 100.000 subscribers in my youtube channel. So I made this spruce sign to thank them all for your support!

First of all I cut a spruce board to size using a hand saw.

I then hammered two nails in the sides of the board. I then connected the two nails with a rubber band. This mechanism helped me establish my vanishing points and guides. That’s because the main element of my design would be typography with extreme perspective. 

I then drew my design by hand. I used several visuals referring to projects I’ve done over the years.

I then nailed the sign on my bench top to prevent it from moving, while routing. I added a V bit on my router and carved on the lines I drew earlier, digging about 1,5mm.

I then sprayed the sign with black paint. After the paint dried out I sanded the excess paint with my random orbit sander. I begun at 50grit, moved to 80 and then 120. Now the paint stayed only inside the carved area!

I used my bandsaw to create a “broken wood” effect by removing material from the sides of the sign.

I then rounded over the edges with a block plane and the spokeshave. I also used a carving gouge to round over a few really difficult to reach spots.

I masked the front of the sign with blue tape. I painted the back and the sides black. This raised the grain of the wood. So I light sanded with 220grit and then applied another coat of paint. I also used my heat gun to speed the drying process up.

I painted a few elements of my design with water based wood stains. These come in powder form. You just mix them with water.

I finished the piece with a few coats of clear varnish while lightly sanding between coats.

I added a hanging wire in the back and my sign was ready.

I hope you like it. I really want to thank all my subscribers for the support!


Friday, January 5, 2018

How to make a DIY painter's rolling cart

I made this art supplies cart out of 9mm plywood. It is really helpful to have all your painting tools and paints in one portable spot.

First of all I used my circular saw and a guide rail to cut a sheet of plywood to more manageable pieces.

The bottom part of the cart will receive plastic bottles full of basic color paints. Using a circle cutting jig on my router I cut circles to receive the bottles. I completed the circles with three passes.

I then cut the sides of the bottom part. I glued all the parts of the bottom together using my air powered nail gun.

Using similar methods I made the top part of the cart. This time I also used the hole saw to make smaller holes. Those will receive small containers. In those containers I can prepare the colors I need in larger quantities while I paint.

I then glued and nailed the sides of the cart on the top and bottom pieces. I reinforced the sides using screws. To install the screws nicely, I predrilled pilot holes and counter sinked them.

I then cut the back panel on the table saw. For the cross cut, I used my cross cut sled. I nailed and glued it in place.

I then cut the side supports for the shelves. I glued and nailed everything in place.

I cut the pieces of the drawer. I also cut a groove on their bottom in order to receive the drawer’s bottom panel. To open the drawer I used a forstner bit to create a semi circular opening. I glued nailed and screwed the drawer pieces together.

I then cut four rectangular pieces on the table saw, using my cross cut sled and a stop block. I glued them on the bottom of the cart and then screwed the wheels in place.

I added two pieces on the sides. Those will provide more support for the handles. Using a caliper I measured the distances for the handles. I also used the caliper to transfer the distance on the sides of the cart. I drilled the holes needed. I used a forstner bit to drill out material from the inner side of the holes. This way the screw heads won’t interfere with the drawers.

I then screwed the handles in place. 

I then used some wood filler to cover up any gaps I had. After the filler dried out I sanded everything flush. I begun with a really aggressive 50 grit sanding disc, moved to 80 and stopped at 120. I did that with my random orbit sander. Using a disc I hand sanded all the edges.

I blew the dust off the cart with my air gun.

My cabinet was now ready. I needed a portable cart for my art supplies. This way I can easily store or use all my painting stuff when I have to do so!

I hope you like it and find it useful!

Thursday, December 21, 2017

How to make a wooden toy castle

I made this DIY castle out of birch plywood. I used the papier-mâché technique to give it a nice stone wall texture. I also used dry brushing to give it a more interesting paint job.

First of all I designed the template of my castle. I then printed the template out and joined all the template pieces together.

I then glued the templates on 9mm plywood, using spray adhesive. I made the circles on the template with 35 degree radius. This is perfect form my 35mm forstner bit. I first marked with an owl and then removed the material with the drill.

I then cut the rest of the pieces on the bandsaw.

The towers of my castle are mirror images of each other. So I glued two pieces of plywood with double sided tape and cut both templates together.

I then sanded the pieces lightly on my belt sander.

I glued all the pieces together with wood glue. I used my nail gun to add brad nails to keep everything in place before the glue sets.

To give the castle a more stone wall texture I used the paper mache technique. I thinned  down wood glue using water. I then cut pieces of kitchen paper. Using a bush I glued the paper on the plywood. The inner area I just coated with wood glue. When the glue dries you get a really hard paintable surface.

I panted the castle with latex paint. 

I then cut the ladder and door pieces on the bandsaw. I glued them together. For these pieces I also used bamboo sticks to act as mini dowels!

To give everything a more aged surface I used the dry brushing technique. You take a brush and dip it in paint. Then you remove the excess paint of the brush with a piece of paper of cloth. Then you apply really fast light strokes on the item you want to dry brush. This highlights the high spots and gives a really interesting texture to the project.

I finished the piece with two coats of clear, satin, water based varnish!

My castle came out epic! I hope you like it!

Thursday, December 14, 2017

How to make a DIY ballerina lamp, with LED strip

I made this wall lamp out of 9mm birch plywood. It is actually a backlight lamp with LEDs.

First of all I cut a piece of birch plywood to size. I used my circular saw with a guide rail for this job.

I then printed out a template. I Joined the pieces of the template together. I added masking tape on the plywood and then I glued the template on the tape with spray adhesive. This way there won’t be any left over glue on the wood, once I remove the template.

I then cut the template out on the bandsaw. I sanded the piece using my belt sander and my rotary tool with a sanding drum bit.

To support the LED strip, I cut several square plywood blocks on the bandsaw. I glued them on the back of the lamp. I used my nail gun to add one nail to each block, until the glue dried.

I also glued and nailed a couple of spacers. Those spacers prevent the lamp from touching the wall. This way the light comes out much nicer.

I secured the LED strip with my hot glue gun. To force the hot glue to freeze faster I provided air with my air gun.

I then soldered and connected the power supply and the on/off switch of the lamp. I also used heat shrinking tubing to a couple of exposed solders. I glued the wires on the back of the lamp with my hot glue gun again. 

I also drilled a hole to act as the hanging mechanism.

I painted the lamp pink. After the first coat was dry I lightly sanded with 220 grit sandpaper. I applied another coat of paint and then finished the piece with two coats of clear water based varnish.

My cute ballerina lamp was now ready, I hope you like it!

Thursday, December 7, 2017

How to make a maraca on the lathe

This is a percussion musical instrument. It is similar to a baby rattle. I made it out of lime tree on the lathe.

First of all I cut a piece of lime tree to size using my circular saw.

I then used my jointer to flatten one side of the board. I cut it in half on the bandsaw. I glued the two flat sides together. 

I then cut two cylindrical pieces on the bandsaw. I did that so that the hollowed egg of the maraca would be hollowed mostly on side grain. This makes the hollowing process much easier.

Using my 1/2 inch bowl gouge I turned the cylinders true. With the parting tool and the skew chisel I created the tenons that would fit the jaws of my chuck.

I shaped the outer sides of the eggs with the spindle gouge. I then hollowed the interior with the bowl gouge.

The halfs are jointed together with a mortise and tenon. After I have roughly turned the two halfs, I glued them together on the lathe. I cleaned one end of the egg with a bowl gouge.

I then used the a forstner bit on the tailstock’s chuck and drilled a hole on one end of the egg.

Using a spindle gouge, I turned the spindle for the handle. I measured the forester bit I used before with a caliper and made a tenon on the end of the spindle with the parting tool.

I filled the egg with rice and glued the egg and the handle together.

I then finished turning everything. I used a straight chisel as a scraper to smooth out as much surface as I could.

I used my steady rest and a bowl gouge to finish the top of the egg. The steady rest helps reduce vibrations and also I avoided the piece from braking off the spindle.

I then sanded everything with 100 and 220 grit.

I used water based powder dyes to color the wood. First I applied the light color with a piece of cloth. Then I added the two darker ones. With the cloth I tried to blend the colors and create a gradient effect. 

I then lightly sanded with 220 and repeated the process. I then used a wet rag to better blend the colors.

I finished the piece with shellac. Shellac is alcohol based and does not dissolve the dyes. I applied six coats of shellac with light sanding between coats.

Using the skew chisel I parted the piece of the chuck. I sanded the bottom on the belt sander and finished it with shellac.

My maraca was now ready, it was a really cool and interesting project!

Thursday, November 30, 2017

How to make a DIY belt sander benchtop station, plus a few jigs

This is a useful sanding station based on my portable belt sander. I also made jigs for chisel and gouge sharpening plus a special jig for making circles. I made this station out of birch plywood, melamine, spruce, dowels and basically whatever scrap pieces of wood I had laying around.

My Skil belt sander has those screw holes that happen to be 8mm size. So I used those and 8mm dowels to easily mount the sander on a melamine piece.

To transfer the exact location of the holes on the melamine, I used masking tape to trace a template and then transferred it on a piece of melamine I cut on the table saw. I then drilled holes on the melamine and glued the dowels in place. 

I then used my circular saw and a guide rail to cut a piece of birch plywood. I secured the melamine on the plywood using just screws. 

I then cut a couple of spruce pieces on the table saw. I glued them on the plywood. I used a few brad nails to secure them in place while glue up.

I then traced the belt sander’s sole and cut it out of a piece of spruce on the bandsaw. Now I used the sander for the first time to sand the piece. 

I then glued and nailed the sanding base on the structure. 

At this point you can clamp the jig on the bench and use it as a regular desktop sander. 

Using a scrap piece of spruce, I made a flat chisel sharpening jig. I glued a flat piece on the jig which pivots on a dowel. 

Then I made something similar for sharpening gouges. Only this time the gouge sit on a 90 degree angle so it can be rotated while sharpening!

Then I made a circle making jig. This is a flat plywood piece that is like an extruded dovetail pin. I made it on the table saw. That piece has a dowel that acts as the circle’s center. The piece slides through another piece with opposite 45 degree beveled sides. The whole piece is actually a sliding dovetail that sits on the sanding station with two dowels. A small screw secures the inner piece in place when you decide the radius of the circle you wanna make.

My jig was now ready and I hope you enjoy it! I think it will prove really useful in my shop!